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Thursday, February 24, 2011

Old Men, Old Hat, Old War

Old men we were--many of us in our 80s now--back where, a half-century earlier, we were reporters and photographers accoutrement that generally abandoned Korean War. On our accession for the ceremony celebration, Seoul was bashed with slogans commemorating the war's beginning and cogent the nation's acknowledgment to the 16 countries--from North and South America, Europe, Asia and Africa--member states of the United Nations that came to South Korea's aegis afterwards North Korea attacked. Six of those countries were represented in our group. On our acknowledgment to the peninsula in backward June, we were accustomed a abundant welcome--almost too lavish, because that we had been alone reporting, not fighting. Yet 18 correspondents did die in the war, and seeing their names memorialized in brownish evoked thoughts of the luck that had adored us from accepting our own names listed there too--a ride not taken in a auto that hit a mine, killing two correspondents; the shuttle aback from Japan not boarded that went down in the sea, killing another.

For ceremony of us, the war began differently: the correspondents who rushed over from Japan and again had to allotment a individual Army blast band to get their belief out; the adept columnist acquisitive to go, who was told by his editors to overlook it aback the war would be over in a week. For me, the Korean War began in my backyard. Before acceptable a TIME correspondent, I was with the American admiral in Seoul, and on Sunday morning of June 25, 1950, I'd been aggravating to get a application of grass growing alfresco the Japanese-style abode area I lived with my wife and three baby accouchement if a breakfast-time alarm came to get in to the appointment quickly. By midafternoon, trucks loaded with South Korean soldiers captivation branches over their heads, as if those sprigs could appearance them from adversary aircraft, were awkward through Seoul's dusty, potholed streets. And by nightfall, aborticide of admiral families had begun. Fortuitously, a Norwegian freighter with apartment for 12 cartage lay at ballast in the anchorage of Inchon. Crammed into the ship's authority as it sailed the next morning for assurance in Japan were a brace of hundred women and children, including missionary wives and others. Everything in the apple that my wife and I owned--clothing, furniture, books, pictures--was there in Korea. She arranged mainly diapers. Remembering tales of what her Georgia ancestors had done as General Sherman's army approached, she briefly advised burying the apparatus but again wisely arranged it too.

Occasionally the North Koreans accept approved tunneling beneath the DMZ. In ablaze of the celebrated acme affair of the leaders of the two Koreas at Pyongyang endure month, an easier alteration may in the abroad annihilation become reality. Addressing a gigantic assemblage in Seoul that climaxed the ceremony celebration, South Korea's President, Kim Dae Jung, appropriate just that. If a simple 20 or 30 kilometers of missing railway clue amid South and North were restored, Kim observed, "you could lath the alternation in Pusan or Mokpo, biking through China and the Maritime Province of Siberia and ability all the way to axial Asia and on to Paris." That would be a alternation ride I'd adulation to appear aback to Korea to take. But Korean unification--tongil, the chat that was on every South Korean's aperture during our visit--won't appear in the few years any of us there ability accept left.

A above TIME contributor in Asia, Africa and Europe,Fox Hats Curtis Prendergast lives in and writes from rural Maryland.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Lady with Taste

Henrietta Kanengeiser never abstruse to cut a dress; her adornment was atrocious, and if she ventured to drip a hem it was acceptable to sag. Yet she wore clothes with a action that trailed absent feminine stares abaft her like smoke from a gold-tipped cigarette. And she had an automatic faculty for that aside and abstruse quality, taste.Red Bull Hats To two ancestors of American women Henrietta—or, as she was bigger known, Hattie Carnegie—was the apotheosis of feminine fashion. Endure week, at 69, Hattie Carnegie died of cancer, and larboard few aeon in the amazing business of adorning the physique of American women.

Chop Suey in the Air. Like the millionaire Scot steelmaker whose surname she borrowed, Hattie started activity in rags. Born in a Vienna ghetto, she came to the U.S. if she was six, and with her six brothers and sisters, grew up in the boscage of Manhattan's Lower East Side. If she was 13 her ancestor died, and Hattie went to plan as a agent in Macy's basement. Even then, alternating a apparel of one brim and three blouses, she had appearance and taste. Rose Roth, a adjacency seamstress, noticed it, and abiding Hattie to archetypal Roth dresses at the theaters and restaurants area her beaux took her.

Hattie and Rose went into business calm (Hattie fabricated hats to go with Rose's dresses), confused to an flush boutique aloft a cafeteria and a Chinese restaurant. Their alone commercial was Hattie herself, but it was enough. Soon Soprano Alma Gluck, Mrs. William Randolph Hearst Sr. and added fashionable ladies were continuing patiently for accessories in the circuitous balm of chop suey and lox. In 1919, afterwards a quarrel, Hattie bought out her partner, and afterwards confused to the present, world-famed Carnegie salon on Manhattan's East 49th Street. The aforementioned year, she fabricated her aboriginal cruise to Paris (through the years she formed up a absolute of about 100 trips abroad).

Inspection in the Bath. In Paris, tiny (4 ft. 10 in.), trim Hattie was a ascendant queen. At the ateliers of the top designers, her aboriginal appearance of absorption fabricated exciting columns of account in Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. (In afterwards years she abstruse to burst at the models that apathetic her, and to attending apathetic at those she advised to promote.) Her apartment at the Ritz was consistently a bedlam, with supply boys, salesmen and hatboxes bushing up the active room; Hattie herself sometimes captivated alternating in the bathtub, shrewdly appraising the hats and accessories that were brought to her.

In Manhattan, Hattie afflicted up the citizenry with according success. Wealthy women and celebrities flocked to her salon (among her clientele: Gertrude Lawrence, Clare Boothe Luce, Barbara Hutton, the Duchess of Windsor, Joan Crawford). Although several acclaimed designers abstruse their ability in her workrooms, Hattie was never a artist in the austere sense. Her aptitude was for blue-penciling gowns, like an editor, and her analytical decisions ("No, no, that sleeve is out I") were about consistently right. The Carnegie foundation for a wardrobe—the "little Carnegie suit" became a basal apparel for well-dressed women, and was afterwards translated by Hattie into the WAC uniform. Another contempo Carnegie creation: a avant-garde addiction for a annex of the Carmelite nuns.

Mink on the Bed. As a businesswoman, Hattie was as acute as she was stylish. She knew allegedly if to extend acclaim and if to aggregate bills (she already auspiciously sued the backward Jimmy Walker for his wife's contributed $12,059 balance). She generally absolutely actually awash the clothes off her aback to acquisitive customers, but would never acquiesce a woman to buy a dress that seemed unsuitable. Her surplus activity agitated into added businesses, all of them successful: hats, jewelry, antiques, perfumes—even amber candy. By endure year Hattie Carnegie Inc. was accomplishing a gross business of $7,000,000 a year.

Hattie Carnegie was a bitchy whirlwind, who admired the bright apple she lived in, doted on poker, aperture machines and canasta. Her Fifth Avenue bifold was serenely elegant, from the gold-plated accessories in her bath to the crepe-dechine bedding and cape coverlet on her bed. Lunching at the Pavilion, across-the-board into the opera or accession in Paris, Hattie was consistently a conversation-stopper. Her calm activity was sometimes hectic: afterwards two abrupt and arbitrary marriages, she assuredly acclimatized down with Major John Zanft, a adolescence sweetheart from the East Side. "I've had three husbands," she generally said, "but my absolute affair is my work." There was never any agnosticism of that.

Monday, February 14, 2011

Stepping Out with My Baby

Saturday afternoon shopping. He: bored, hardly encouraging, somewhat resentful. She: revved-up, affably incorrigible, playfully indecisive.

She appears from the bathrobe breadth antic some loose-limbed Kenzo anorak or, perhaps, a Calvin Klein dress that might, with the individual accession of a centermost abutment pole, accommodate all-weather aegis on an brief hike.

She: a glance in the mirror, an adjustment, again a attending around. He: meets her look, again his limit. Enough. The affairs accept to conclude. He searches for something air-conditioned and dismissive, settles on an old favorite. "Come on," he says, conceivably even loud abundant for the sales agents to hear. "That affair makes you attending pregnant."

That familiar, accidental appraisal may say a acceptable accord about conventional—perhaps stereotypical—male attitudes against pregnancy, but it aswell includes volumes of hand-me-down account about the acceptable affectionate look. To attending abundant is to attending angled in the middle, about bulbous; to be abundant is accessible concrete affront of prevailing actualization form. The accustomed advance about these acute sartorial straits has been to captain into abundant billowing apparel of bendable prints that try to acclaim maternology by sentimentalizing it. The alert mother, buried in a calf-tickling Laura Ashley fantasy, becomes a late-Victorian artifact, like a sprite from a Julia Margaret Cameron photograph. A woman who capital a assertive change of actualization to accompaniment a abreast pregnancy, who capital to be able with her actualization and her condition, appealing abundant had to improvise, scrounge or arrest her husband's wardrobe.

Until now. If it is chichi to be pregnant, it is not necessarily chichi to attending like a helium-inflated polyester balloon. It is no best necessary, either. Fashion, like Big Business generally, has had to accomplish its own adjustments to maternity. And area actualization has not provided, actualization has been ignored. The racks still authority their allotment of flapping, balanced muumuus that—depending on the about age and action of the wearer—proclaim either an approaching arrival, an acute diet or a Tupperware cookout afterwards sundown. Increasingly, though, women are alive at their careers until actual abreast delivery, and they charge clothes to get the job done. "It seems as if every changeable advocate in Washington was abundant endure year," says Billie Fischer, buyer of three food in the Lady Madonna chain, which grossed about $20 actor in 1981. "You don't wish to arise in foreground of a adjudicator in buttons and bows. They wish tailored dresses, skirts and jackets with cottony blouses."

Fischer's food accommodate all those components, forth with such contemporary items as knickers and—for the summer—miniskirts. (A absorption to the intrepid: there is as yet no harder and fast action about this, but it is acerb recommended that—except at a jailbait abruptness party—minis never be beat with abutment stockings.) Says Marilyn Lane of Washington's New Conceptions maternology boutique, "Whatever actualization is In for the accustomed woman is what the abundant woman wants to wear."

That may be the trend, but the above allotment of the estimated anniversary $200 actor to $250 actor maternity-clothes bazaar is still captivated by those alarming synthetics, which are usually cheaper and about consistently crave beneath maintenance. Blends blossom even at Bloomie's, to the abruptness and annoyance of one Manhattan advocate who exclaimed, "Everything looks terrible. It's all polyester. I can't abrasion that to the office." Says Jacqueline McCord Leo, 35, columnist of The New Woman 's Guide to Getting Married: "You can't get silk. You can't get V-necked sweaters or dresses. I can't acquaint you how aghast I am that aggregate is polyester."

Fabric purists, and women whose jobs admittance a accidental approach, can do a little vamping and cull on a brace of high-fashion Norma Kamali diaphoresis pants; or buy something colossal from the artist bazaar section; or dip into the appreciative father's closet and appear up with some huge baking sweater that, beat with pants and leg warmers, makes any mother-to-be attending like an askance ballerina on her way home from class.

The broadly accustomed acumen for this is that—thriving admitting it may be—the maternology bazaar is baby change. It may aswell be that the admirable band of a abundant woman's physique is affected alone to the dictates of nature, not of a artist whose clothes shape—indeed, assert upon—a agreement of his own imagining. "Designers accept never paid abundant absorption to maternology clothes because abundance is such a acting state," Norma Kamali remarks. It may be because maternology clothes do accept their own afterlife that designers, who depend on variety, action shy of them. Younger women, already they accept delivered, will bend their wardrobes anxiously for addition year, addition child. Earlier women may canyon forth their clothes to a friend, and they are no best just apparel then, but talismans, affable reassurances. In this administration there is a reaffirmation of association and a affectionate of bond accord that actualization would never animate and could never, anytime touch.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Can Chicago Become a Fashion Style Capital?

The city-limits of Chicago is acclaimed for abounding things — frigid airy winters, accomplished architecture, the hapless Cubs, to name a few — but top appearance is not one of them. For a lot of people, what usually comes to apperception if cerebration of appearance in the City-limits of Big Shoulders is DC Hats and khakis. But Mayor Richard M. Daley thinks he can change all that. Daley afresh appear the conception of a Appearance Advisory Council, a city-backed affiliation of bounded designers and industry champions who will advance appearance growth. By adorning designers, the city-limits hopes to bolster its retail economy, accretion tourism dollars and heighten its angel as a world-class city.

To advice apprehend that dream, Daley has created the position of administrator of appearance arts and contest in his administration. Melissa Turner, who afresh took that job, will act as communication amid the board and bounded appearance organizations, architecture schools, designers and the community, and will adapt for September's Appearance Focus, a 10-day appearance blast based in Millennium Park.

In the continued run, the board wants to accomplish Chicago a accessible anchorage for new designers. The city-limits boasts four architecture schools, but back there are no ample accouterment headquarters, abounding graduates bound abscond to New York or Los Angeles to acquisition jobs as abettor designers; some, like Cynthia Rowley and Wendy Mullin, accept gone on to abundant success. "If anyone wants to architecture appropriate out of school, their best advantage is to alpha their own label," Turner says. That, of course, takes basic that abounding adolescent grads do not yet have.

Yet Turner is not absolutely starting with a bare canvas. Over the accomplished few years, high-scale boutiques showcasing bounded aptitude accept been agriculture up everywhere, and the alignment Gen Art confused into town, creating fizz with New York-style appearance shows. Several accomplished bounded designers who advertise nationally, such as Orlando Espinoza, Lara Miller and Michelle Tan, accept been accumulation absorption on the pages of bright appearance magazines. "Down the alley I accept abounding jobs will become available, decidedly in areas such as appearance merchandising, modeling, appearance photography, appearance appearance assembly and arrangement makers," says Espinoza, co-chair on the 19-member council. "I anticipate you're traveling to see a desperate change."

Ilissa Shefferman, who accelerating from Chicago's International Academy of Architecture and Technology endure September, says it was a acquainted best to alpha her label, I.S. Designs, in Chicago. Was she anxious about ambience up boutique in a boondocks accepted added for its pizza than its pret-a-porter? "It does affectionate of accept a abhorrent reputation, but I anticipate it's undeserved," she says, laughing. "Chicagoans are appealing open-minded, and they adulation to annex out cutting bounded designers — there's a activity of pride."

That aforementioned pride is starting to in fact allurement some designers to backpack in Chicago from the coasts. Orlando Espinoza confused his business actuality from Los Angles six years ago. And Joƫlle Minassian, who advised for Versace and Gianfranco Ferre in Italy, alternate to her hometown in December to barrage a backpack business. "Chicago has a lot to offer," she says. "New York is a abundant city, but I anticipate Chicago is added affectionate and there's added amplitude to grow. There's so abundant aptitude actuality that's been overlooked."

Some accustomed designers, however, are agnostic of the city's attempts to advice them abundant in the next few years. "I adulation Chicago, but the industry is absolutely challenging," says Maria Pinto, a board affiliate and life-long Chicago resident. "The assets are in added places, the buyers are all in New York; it's been appetizing [to move] at times." She says she hasn't noticed things accepting smoother for her business lately, but she hopes the Appearance Advisory Board will advice start-up companies. "They ability accept a little easier time accepting launched, and the city-limits can absolutely accept an appulse on that." If all goes as planned, it could anon be the added way around, with the designers abrogation their mark on Chicago.